Refshaleøen: CPH’s industrial heritage

Yesterday we visited Refshaleøen, a wilderness area just over the water from the Little Mermaid. An artificial island dominated by an abandoned shipyard, the area is being shined up in the name of the experience economy. As part of Kulturhavn, a harbour festival and the latest of a seemingly endless parade of same in CPH over the summer, there were guided walks and free waterbuses on offer.

Kulturhavn as a whole was nicely done, with events over the weekend at six harbour/dock locations:

After collecting the route map we went for the self guided walk option. Or rather beagle guided – drifting with beagles is often on their terms, and on a hot day compromises have to be made so they don’t completely exhaust themselves. One of our beagles is a horror in the car but a deep thinker at heart, and after some initial pulling paces himself to take it all in. The other one seems to do his thinking in the car, where he is happy looking out of the back window, but once he gets out it’s all systems go until exhaustion hits, when he lies down and won’t budge.

We pretty much followed the designated Shipyard Route – see Værftsruten for details of the 15 locations – but will have to come back on a cooler day to take in the details. As a whole the ‘island’ has a bit of everything – views across the water to Copenhagen ‘proper’, industrial chic, a trendy beach bar (Halvandet), windmills/fishing, although access is an issue. Copehagen’s heritage as an industrial harbour city is an interesting one, rather different from the fairytale image.


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